MODERN
HEDEBO (after 1850)
A whitework embroidery where shapes are cut in the fabric
and filled with needlelace.

Hedebo is unusual in that there are three distinct forms
that all fall under the same name but use quite different
techniques. It is the third and most recent form that is
outlined here.
CHARACTERISTICS
•Tightly woven fabric.
•Design of cut-out, geometrical, shapes - scallops,
hearts, crescents, circles, half circles, diamonds, leaves
and tulip shaped flowers.
•Shapes outlined with buttonhole stitch.
•Fillings attached to buttonhole outlines with buttonhole
st. - bars, scallops, wheels & lines.
•Background fabric is cut away after working.
ORIGINS
A peasant embroidery from Denmark which flourished in early
18th Century. Danes call it 'Hedebosyning' meaning 'Hedebo
Sewing' . Takes its name from the principal workers who
live in the district called `Heden', a heath, and ' Bo',
to live = people who live on the heath, the land that lies
between Compehagen and Roskilde, the former capital.
It is very closely related
to Reticella lace. The embroidery was bold and strong, not
as fine as Dresden work of Saxony or Ayrshire work from
Scotland. The designs appear isolated and sparsely decorated
as they do not have the supporting or connecting surface
stitchery.
Early hedebo 1790-1850
used a square mesh with designs of simple abstract shapes,
often resembling flowers and leaves and using cutwork and
pulled fabric techniques. The shapes are outlined with two
close rows of chain stitch. Some of the threads in the motif
are removed in both directions and then strengthened and
decorated. Later, the simple mesh outline and surface stitchery
were replaced by cut out shapes.
In 20th C the technique
became very popular through Europe, commercially successful
and reproduced in magazines for dress and table linen. Sometimes
the open spaces were filled with tatting or crochet, debasing
the original work.
FABRIC AND THREADS
Early work was on a coarse linen and worked in heavy white
embroidery thread. Later fine linen fabric was used with
fine linen thread. Cotton background and cotton muslin were
used as they became available. However work is best done
with linen thread which is stronger. Cotton thread is inclined
to fuzz and is not as stable for working.
STITCHES
Hedebo buttonhole stitch is worked using an extra twist
for stability.
Satin stitch, eyelets and French knots occasionally added.
Edge finished with simple buttonhole, Antwerp or Armenian
edge.
REFERENCES
Cutwork, Hedebo and Broderie Anglaise, edited by Jules &
Kaethe Kliot, Lacis, California, 1992
Embroider Now by Hetsie van Wyk, Cape Town 1977
Whitework by Barbara Dawson, Batsford, London, 1987
A – Z of Whitework Book 1 surface Embroidery, Inspirations
Books, 2007
© Valerie Cavill
2008