SHISHA or MIRROR Work

CHARACTERISTICS
• General embroidery designs incorporating
• Shapes – round, square, triangular – originally from mica, mirror glass, today plastic.
• Laidwork stitches hold the mirror in place.
• Chain stitches used in the overall design.

HISTORY
This work which originated in India, is thought to have been developed by the wife of the Shah Jahan who built the Taj Mahal in her honour. It gained popularity in the 17th century.

The main feature is the shapes – round, square, triangular – which are cut, originally from mica, or thin mirror glass. It has been said that the reflecting quality of the mirrors was used to scare off evil spirits.

As the mirrors cannot be pierced, each piece is sewn on with a mount, threads laid across and a buttonhole stitch around the perimeter to hold it in place. The mirrors form an integral part of the overall design stitched in bright colours using chain stich and open chain.

Today, a quick technique is to cover a ring with thread, place it on top of the mirror and slip-stitch it into place. Today, some are even glued.

Shisha work was used in garments, wall hangings, friezes and cushions.

REFERENCES:
Morrell, Anne, The Techniques of Indian Embroidery, Batsford, London, 1992