Blackwork, (sometimes known as Spanish work) is a counted thread monochrome embroidery, usually using a black thread on white or natural evenweave material. In earlier times dark blue, green brown and red threads were used. Work was often highlighted in gold thread.

It is often said that Catherine of Aragon brought blackwork from Spain to England when she married Henry VIII in 1509. But black counted thread embroidery was practised in England before that date.

In the Canterbury tales, written 1388-1400, Chaucer in describing Alison, the carpenter's wife, says:

"Her smock was white; embroidery repeated Its pattern on collar front and back, Inside and out; it was of silk and black"

Blackwork was probably of African origin and introduced to Spain by the Moors who invaded Europe from 711 A.D.

However, Catherine of Aragon increased the popularity of blackwork in England. Throughout Tudor and Elizabethan times the embroidery was used extensively on clothing particularly on the very full sleeves of women's dresses. Portraits by Hans Holbein (1497-1543) and George Cower (1516-1585) illustrate the extensive use of blackwork in clothing.

So many portraits by Holbein show people wearing clothing decorated in this way that double running stitch, one of the main blackwork techniques of that period, is sometimes called Holbein Stitch.

At the beginning of the 18th century, blackwork was superseded by polychrome stitching.

By Claire Adams and Valerie Cavill