The origins of Hardanger are vague. There is evidence that both style and technique are associated with early Persian and Asian textiles. Links with Renaissance white work and lace can also be found.
From time to time, particularly in the Middle Ages, laws banned the use of colour and rich work in embroidery. When these laws were in effect, needlewomen paid more attention to white work to express richness and delicacy.
About the middle of the 18th century, the women of Hardanger, a mountainous district in South West Norway at the head of the Hardanger Fiord, spun flax and wove linen fabric with a characteristic double thread. It was on this type of fabric that Hardanger embroidery was developed in its present form, using thick cotton and linen threads.
Hardanger is a kind of drawn thread work because the threads of the material are removed in both directions to form an open mesh which is then strengthened and decorated. Traditionally, the embroidery was worked in white yarn on white fabric, but modern designs have used colour.
The regional costume, worn by women of Hardanger and still seen on Sundays and at festivals, consists of a long sleeved blouse, red waistcoat, full length black skirt and long white apron. Bands of Hardanger embroidery feature on the apron and on the sleeves of the blouse.
This hard wearing style of embroidery has not changed much since the 18th century and is still made, often for the tourist trade.
By Joyce Taylor