ROULADE (FAGOTTING)

Characteristics

Design is formed with long strips of lace or material, usually roulades (thin strips of material joined together and turned inside out to make a tube) Cretan or herringbone stitch joins the strips in a decorative manner Other decorative stitches are often used to fill spaces. Long strips of tape, lace or material hemmed on either side, are joined together with various types of stitching. With fine exotic fabric, tiny rolled hems are used. Alternatively, long strips of fine satin, often called "straps", are made in a roulade and flattened with an iron.

History

In earlier times when people were very poor, every piece of material was saved. Strips were joined together to make one piece which was wearable. Later, because it looked so attractive it took on a more decorative form.

Fine ladies used faggoting on exotic fabrics to make lingerie, as decorative insertions in clothing and articles of household linen. It was an ideal way to lengthen a petticoat or pantaloons or to add a false hem on a garment.

Faggotting was popular in Victorian times with satin roulades used for collars and cuffs. Cotton thread was used because this could be starched and the loops ironed to remain wide open.

References

© Valerie Cavill

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